How to Sew Cuffs and Sleeve Plackets: A Step-by-Step Guide
Sewing cuffs and sleeve plackets can elevate the look of your handmade garments, giving them a professional, polished finish. Whether you’re working on a classic button-up shirt or a stylish blouse, mastering these techniques will enhance your sewing skills. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process step by step.
Materials and Tools Needed
- Fabric (woven fabrics like cotton, linen, or poplin work well)
- Matching thread
- Sewing machine
- Scissors
- Pins or clips
- Ruler and marking tool
- Fusible interfacing (optional, for structure)
- Buttons and buttonhole foot (if applicable)
Step 1: Prepare the Sleeve Placket
A sleeve placket is a small opening on the sleeve that allows the cuff to fit around the wrist comfortably. Here’s how to sew one:
- Mark and Cut the Placket
- On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the placket opening according to your pattern.
- Carefully cut along the marked line, stopping at the designated end point.
- Attach the Placket Piece
- Cut a separate placket piece (usually a rectangle) and fold it in half lengthwise.
- Align one long edge of the placket to the cut opening, right sides together.
- Sew a narrow seam, pivoting at the end of the cut.
- Fold and Topstitch
- Fold the placket over to the right side, encasing the raw edge.
- Press and topstitch close to the edges to secure it neatly.
Step 2: Prepare the Cuffs
- Cut and Interface the Cuff
- Cut two cuff pieces from your fabric.
- If desired, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of one piece for extra structure.
- Sew the Cuff Pieces Together
- Place the two cuff pieces right sides together.
- Sew along three sides, leaving the edge that attaches to the sleeve open.
- Trim corners and turn the cuff right side out.
- Press the edges crisp and topstitch for a clean finish.
Step 3: Attach the Cuff to the Sleeve
- Gather or Pleat the Sleeve
- Depending on your pattern, you may need to gather or pleat the sleeve opening to match the cuff length.
- Sew the Cuff to the Sleeve
- With right sides together, pin the raw edge of the cuff to the sleeve opening.
- Sew with a ⅜” (1 cm) seam allowance.
- Fold the inside edge of the cuff under and stitch in place, either by hand or by topstitching from the outside.
- Add Buttons and Buttonholes
- Mark and sew a buttonhole on one side of the cuff.
- Sew the corresponding button on the opposite side.
Final Tips
- Always press as you go for the most professional finish.
- Use topstitching to secure and strengthen seams.
- If sewing for the first time, practice on scrap fabric before working on your final garment.
